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We all know that chocolate can be toxic to dogs...but what about raisins? Many dog owners don't suspect raisins and grapes as being harmful, but they can cause havoc on your dog's kidneys which can be fatal. Read on to learn how to protect your dog.

When my German Shepard and Miniature Schnauzer indulged in a bag of trail mix, my first reaction was to call the vet. Initially, I was worried about the chocolate, but I soon found out the raisins my dog consumed may be lethal.

Because of her size, my German Shepard was alright...but we faced losing my Miniature Schnauzer. After two days in the dog hospital and a huge vet bill, I'm happy to report our little raisin eater is very healthy. But I want all dog owners to know about the risks of feeding your dogs common foods from your panty...like raisins and grapes.

What are the signs of raisin toxicity?

• Vomiting within the first two hours of consumption

• Diarrhea

• Lethargy

• Acute renal failure can occur within 24 hours - 7 days

What should I do if my dog eats raisins or grapes (or anything I'm not sure about)?

Do you know the phone number to your local dog emergency hospital? If you don't, look up the number and program it into your phone. It should be the equivalent of 911 to your dog. If your vet is open, call them immediately. If it's after hours, call the vet hospital.

What is the treatment for raisin toxicity?

Your vet should induce vomiting immediately. The sooner this is done, the better the outlook (within the first two hours). Your vet may administer one or more treatments of charcoal. Fluids may be administered for 48 hours or more and blood work is monitored. Your vet may consult the ASPCA (Animal Poison Control Center) for treatment recommendations (888-426-4425).

The best way to protect your dog from raisin toxicity and other similar issues is to keep human food out of reach. Although it may be tempting to feed your dog a little bite (especially when he looks so cute), it could have serious consequences.




For more information, visit http://www.dog-health-info.net


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Our son has been on a long, arduous campaign for our family to adopt a dog. I have to admit we are weakening.

I have always loved dogs and I can well remember my own beloved childhood friends as well as that desperate desire for my very own canine companion. Plus he is an active child who loves the outdoors and he is an only child with no children his age living nearby so a dog could be a wonderful playmate and friend.

But I also feel in my heart it is simply too soon for me to open my heart to another dog. It has only been a year since I lost my beloved labrador Shamus and I still miss her terribly. Friends have told me to get another dog, but I find that rather hard-hearted. If my husband died people wouldn't send me right out to pick a new one and if my son died people wouldn't simply suggest I get pregnant again. Yes I will eventually adopt another dog to join our family, just as many people do remarry or have other children, but I am not done grieving for the loss of Shamus. You see she was a special dog and she was a very large part of my life.

Shamus joined our family during the first year of our marriage, more than a decade before our son made an appearance, and moved from New York to Kentucky with us.

She was the sweetest, most loving dog imaginable but then she was a lab and we know that is part of their nature. When she was younger my husband would take her hunting and she loved to hunt so much despite being lazy. However, I always swore that made her a better retriever because she didn't want to waste a step! She was such an agreeable dog that my husband said she was the best dog he'd ever had; she was so eager-to-please (another lab trait) that she was a joy to train.

During the last years of her life she steadily grew weaker and struggled with many health issues but she was still so loving and uncomplaining. It was very difficult for us as we watched her decline and I dreaded being forced to make a decision, but in the end she made that decision on her own. Despite the many months of knowing her death was coming it was still so very hard to say good-bye. It was even more difficult to know that the world contains one less gentle heart and one less being that loves me.

But the lessons she taught me live on:

The 5 important life lessons I learned from my dog

You can learn a lot from being a pet owner and the lessons begin from the first day your furry family member steps into your life and continue after you say your final farewell. In many ways, my dog was a far better person than I can ever hope to become.

1. Stay in touch with your loved ones

And I mean really in touch! Every pet owner knows what I mean. We humans don't touch each other enough. Sure, we cuddle our babies, and fondle our new lovers, but in every relationship there comes a point when kisses are perfunctory farewells and hugs are doled out sparingly.

Dogs know that a simple touch from someone you love can make any situation better and sometimes make all the difference in the world. They appreciate the wonder and magic of a kiss (or lick) just because they love you and know that sometimes just sitting close enough to touch frequently keeps the cold, dark nights at bay.

2. Never overlook the chance for a nap

While most of us can't work into our schedules the 20-hours of sleep time that dogs enjoy, we could all benefit from taking advantage of some down time to relax and rejuvenate. There are few of us who are getting enough rest and many are subsisting on far less sleep than is really adequate. This is no way to live let alone thrive. Your dog knows how to relax, just roll on your back and let your tongue loll out. You'd be surprised how wonderful it feels!

Dogs know that sleep should be high on your priority list-surely higher than laundry and cleaning although not higher than any food-related activity. Give yourself some down time and you'll feel the better for it.

3. Jealousy is a waste of time

It would have been understandable if our dog took an instant dislike to our newborn. After all, for 11 years she had been the "baby" of the family. Even more than that, during the nine months of my pregnancy I'd been very sick and she'd been my constant companion on couch and bed. Now suddenly that was over and there was precious little time for grooming, walks, or cuddling. All our attention was focused on someone else. Jealous? Not our Shamus. She instantly bonded with the little screamer even though we didn't let her get too close while we sussed the situation out.

She was better than any baby monitor available as she would come find us at the first sign of stirring and distress. She was the best nursemaid as she carefully investigated any visitors approaching the baby and always slept by his bed to guard against intruders and be vigilante for his every need. Then as the baby grew and became more mobile she was the epitome of patience with all his hair-gripping, lip-tugging, ear-pulling explorations.

She was his his guardian angel, playmate, and furry walker and she loved every minute of it.

4. The best toys are found not bought

Expensive squeaky toy? Shredded in minutes. Knobby ball? Lost in the bushes. Rubber bone? Shoved under couch. Frisbee found by the side of the road? Played with every day and stowed carefully on bed when not in use. A person's hand? Endless play opportunities.

Dogs and young children teach us an important lesson about gifts. Your time and attention are the greatest gift of all and with a little imagination and energy you don't need any toys at all, let alone expensive, electronic gadgets.

5. You are never too old to play

Arthritis and muscular atrophy sometimes make it a challenge for Shamus to get around, but she still loves to wrestle and will even romp for a little while. Although she can't be as active and play fetch for hours as she once did, she still wants to be in the center of the action and participate as much as she can.

We humans forget that the need for play and fellowship does not disappear when we leave childhood. There is no such thing as being too old to play. Perhaps we need to revise our choice of game and venue, but no matter what our age, there should be no limit to our ability to join in the fun!

What lessons has your dog taught you? What role does your dog play in your home?




Deanna Mascle is an inspirational freelance writer. You can find more inspiration at Inspiration by Dawggone and her inspirational ezines Words of Inspiration Online and Daily Quote Online.


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One of the commonest questions asked by dog owners who have a bitch that has not been desexed, is - Is my bitch coming into season?

To help you know - it's VERY IMPORTANT to know your dogs age, as accurately as possible! A bitch can come into season from the age of 6 months - to as late as 12 months. You will need to be switched on though and start checking - at around 6 months of age.

PLEASE NOTE - professional breeders are obliged by their breed associations to breed ONLY from 12 months onward. This is because dogs that are only around 6 months of age are still very much puppies, and are immature both physically and mentally. Your dog will be a stronger and better mother and her pups will do much better if you wait until she's at least 12 months of age.

If you're tempted to breed early ONLY because you think you'll make money by selling pups - be warned, Vet bills can be high - it really is best to wait for the dog to be mature!

Early Signs of Heat

One of the really early signs can be a stage of "scenting" to let male dogs know of their condition. This will appear to the more observant owner as an increase in urination and generally occurs around 2 weeks prior to coming into season. There may also be an increase in the dog licking its vulva in an effort to keep itself clean.

More Obvious Signs (Pro-oestrus - about 9 days length)

This next stage is much more obvious and is really the first full stage of heat. The bitches vulva begins to swell and can go to as large as TRIPLE its original size, this stage will last about 9 days.

IMPORTANT you need to have been observing - in order to detect the swelling. For an indication of the extent of the changes - SEE PICTURES on my site under dog breeding.

You should not miss this stage though, it is VERY obvious, because usually there is a blood stained discharge, which will vary in intensity from bitch to bitch. The discharge may start off a brown colour and progress to red. The dogs appetite can also decrease, but this is not always the case. Also usually the bitch may be more dominant with other females and begin to "flag" male dogs - ie, putting her tail up and presenting her rear to the nose of the male dog.

It should be noted however that the bitch will NOT allow a male to attempt mating at this point!

Needless to say, being observant early on means that you should be able to pick the next stage - which is the BEST time for mating - OR if you do not want to breed, the RISKIEST time - the time of maximum fertility!

The next stage is called Oestrus or Standing Heat and is where breeders will want to introduce the stud dog, to allow for mating and a "tie" to occur, for more information on this next crucial stage of the dogs heat cycle, please visit my site, at the link below.




Steve Gaskin is an author of Dog Breeding, Feeding and Training articles - he and his wife own and breed Staffordshire Bull Terriers. For more information - for Ebook reviews and a FREE Home-made Dog Food Recipe visit: http://dogloverstoolbox.com


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This article explains in plain English the fastest way to stop your puppy dog biting at your clothing, hands or other body parts. If you have "tried everything" or simply have no idea what to do, the answers are all here and made easy. Methods are humane and pet-friendly, utilizing positive reinforcement and 'time-outs' instead of spanking or scolding.

All puppies will bite and chew your body parts or clothing. It is just what puppies do. Their sharp, needle-like teeth can cause quite a lot of pain, and clothing can easily be damaged. It makes sense that we want to teach puppy that this is unacceptable as quickly as possible. What's more, if puppies are allowed to continue this behavior, by the time they are adolescents or adults they could cause some serious damage!

That's not to say that having a puppy's mouth on you is necessarily a 'bad' thing. Puppies need to learn what we call 'bite inhibition', which is a soft, inhibited bite. Why? All dogs will bite under certain circumstances, particularly if taken by surprise. The dog that learns bite inhibition can bite without causing any real damage.

First, some theory. Don't worry, it's not long and boring!

If you have read my earlier article "Secrets of Dog Training Professionals - Operant Conditioning" then you will be familiar with the term 'Negative Punishment'. Sounds awful, doesn't it? But don't worry, Negative Punishment simply means that behavior is decreased because we took something away as a consequence of that behavior.

A 'time out' is a Negative Punisher when the target behavior is decreased. Time outs are one of the most humane and pet-friendly punishments we can use, when used with thought and care.

Puppies bite at our hands and clothing because that is the way that puppies like to play. It is fun, and they enjoy our attention. They particularly like it if we try to fight them off of us. Have you ever seen two or more puppies playing? They like to fight each other with their mouths and paws.

Normally, other puppies teach our puppy not to bite too hard by squealing in pain. When we take our puppy from the litter, these other puppies aren't around to teach proper bite inhibition any more. Some people advise trying to emulate a 'puppy squeal' to discourage biting too hard.

I don't know why, but people just don't seem to be very convincing with their squeals, so I don't recommend it as a training technique. What's more, some puppies seem to enjoy it when their human squeals and will get more excited, resulting in more biting. This is obviously not what we want puppy to do! If you can squeal and your puppy immediately stops biting, then this is an acceptable technique. Monitor the behavior long-term, though, to make sure biting too hard is decreasing.

A different, yet highly effective aproach is to say 'ouch' in a neutral tone of voice (not loud, not high-pitched and not angry) then walk out of the room, shutting the door behind you for 30 seconds. This marks the exact behavior you are trying to punish, then gives a time-out as a consequence.

It may take puppy a little while to figure out the link between his biting and the time-out, but the marker will make it clearer. It is important to say 'ouch' in a neutral tone of voice, and say it exactly at the moment that puppy bites too hard.

Notice that I said "exactly at the moment that puppy bites too hard"? We don't want to discourage young puppies from biting altogether, this would be bite prohibition. We want to teach puppies to inhibit their bite.

Time-outs should not be excessive. A long time-out can be stressful and lead to other unwanted behaviors. 30 seconds is more than enough and seems to be quite effective. Don't look back at puppy or try to push puppy away when you say 'ouch'. Simply get up and leave, closing the door behind you.

If you have family or friends in the room then it might be easier to lead puppy out of the room and shut him out for his time-out. However, this doesn't seem to be as effective to me.

Remember, it is only punishment if the behavior decreases. Continuing with a punishment which is unclear or ineffective is a waste of time and borders on abuse (although, it would be hard to do damage with a 30 second time-out). Consider your timing, consistency and whether or not there is anyone else in puppy's life who is not following through with this protocol consistently. It is important that you explain the rules to anyone who plays with puppy.

If all else fails, seek professional advice. Most vet clinics are now offering puppy kinder classes using humane and pet-friendly techniques.




Aidan Bindoff is Editor of http://www.positivepetzine.com your helpful on-line resource for free positive dog training advice that works fast and that anyone can apply today!


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The history of the Beagle dog is a long and somewhat fuzzy one. No one seems to know for sure the exact origin of this breed, but information seems to lead to the fact that Beagles came from the Talbot Hound, a breed that is now extinct. By the early part of the second century, Beagles were brought from France to England, and the primary purpose of this dog was for hunting rabbits.

Beagles were bred with distinct instincts that allowed them to chase these critters across the countryside and coax them out of their hiding spots for the benefit of the hunters. Understanding these basic hunting instincts will help a Beagle owner to better comprehend some of the habits and tendencies of their Beagle dog. For example, Beagles required a high amount of energy to keep up with their hunts, and the dogs of this breed today will also need the opportunity to exercise regularly. Because these dogs were also bred in packs, your Beagle will need the socialization of his new pack, which will consist of you and the rest of your family members.
Beagles were originally bred in packs, so this dog is used to the noise and activity of others. He will love spending the majority of his time indoors with his new family, and will not particularly want to be left alone for long periods of time. This means that if you are going to leave your Beagle while at work during the day, it is best to keep him in a confined space, like a crate, indoors. This will help to prevent the destruction that a bored Beagle can cause, as well as the "complaining" that this dog might do through barking and howling.

When you are home, your dog will want to spend plenty of time playing with you, and will love all of the members of your family in the same affectionate manner. Keep your Beagle active by taking him out to a fenced yard for playtime or indulging him in a long walk - on his leash of course. Beagles are easily distracted by scents when they are outdoors, and will think nothing of taking off on an adventure of their own if they are not properly confined.

With the proper attention, care and training a Beagle dog can make a welcome addition to most family units. They usually love children and other pets, as long as they are properly socialized and trained. It is important never to leave small pets or young children with your dog unsupervised however, since accidents can happen with this exuberant pup. Beagles will enjoy plenty of activity and exercise, and will always be happy to see visitors on walks or coming into their homes. These dogs tend to be friendly, social and very playful.

If you are considering a Beagle as a family pet it is a good idea to collect as much Beagle information as possible to ensure that you are prepared to give your new pet all of the proper care and training that he will require. With the appropriate research and preparation you will undoubtedly have a successful and happy relationship with your new Beagle.




Michelle Adams is someone who has researched many breeds of dogs, including the Beagle. Since breeding brings certain instincts and behaviors into play with different types of dogs understanding the history of your Beagle will better equip you to work with your new pet. There is plenty of Beagle information available including the interesting history of your pet. Articles like this and interviews with experts in the field will help you to understand where your Beagle came from and why he acts the way he does.


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You have noticed it many times that your cat has to beleaguer your for its food because your dog steals away the cat food. You must stop your dog from pilfering with the cat food, as it is not a healthy practice for your dog. As soon as you catch your dog eating the cat food, you should immediately yell at it and make it understand that this is a negative action on its part.

You can also keep handy a little spay bottle. A good spray is enough to stop your dog from fiddling with the cat's meals. You must be prompt while using the aforementioned techniques. If you take actions after your dog has finished the food, it will just confuse your dog. It will not understand the proper matter on which you want to avert it. It should be borne in mind that the dog does not remember past activities. Even, it is unable to differentiate between crime and good deeds.

You can place the cat food to a distant place which is difficult for your dog to reach, although your cat can easily get there. You can even gate the eating area of your cat. You should restrict your dog to go near the eating place of your cat. You can also place the cat food on an elevated shelf, if your cat has the ability to jump till adequate heights. Cats have a tendency to reach even at those places, where your dog can not even think of.

You can provide meals to both your pets at the same moment on regular basis. You can keep away all the bowls after both your pets have finished their meals. By doing the above mentioned stuff, you can easily get rid of various aggravations included in these situations. You can even mount a wireless fence indoors. It would warn your dog when it approaches towards the food meant for your cat.

Being a responsible and careful pet owner, you must take necessary steps to do away with these hectic issues. A bif cardboard box should be arranged, where the cat can easily have its meals. You should then cut an entrance way for the cat to go inside. This opening should be such that your dog can not go inside the box. You should always feed both your pets on scheduled time everyday. Adequate amount of food as well as water should be provided to all the pets with the aim to avoid their interference in each other's foods.




To Find the best Dog Supplies for your dog takes time and effort. You can get your dog beautiful and elegant Dog Clothes to place a smile on their faces.


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OK, how dumb AM I? Wait, don't answer that!!!

My 9 year old Cardigan Welsh Corgi Gizmo, also known as Schizzle, needs some anger management classes when it comes to the three boxers next door. They are not great dog neighbors, since their owner leaves the three dogs out to do as they please, and what seems to please them the most is tormenting my dogs through the fence. Gizmo is a classic reactive dog when it comes to the boxers, acting like a totally different dog, working himself into a frenzy about these boxers. He started taking out his frustration on the fence, grabbing with teeth, pulling off bits and pieces of wood before I can get out there to stop him. The hole in the fence is nearly big enough now that he can get his head and shoulders through, and he launches himself into the hole thinking he can squeeze the rest of him through (think Pooh bear stuck in the tree). I think that won't be far off, if I don't figure out how to put something over that hole that he won't just chew again. I really thought that putting in a privacy fence, and leaving a 32 inch empty space then leaving the already existing chain link fence between Giz and the boxers would do the trick because they wouldn't see each other, silly me.

Recently, the neighbor has been leaving obnoxious boxers outside more and more. And Gizmo has been getting in more and more trouble, and any outing outside usually has me standing in the rain, the sun, the heat, the cold, whatever, blocking Gizmo's access to that hole. Then he runs around me in a wide arc, just out of my reach, spitting as he barks because he’s frothing in his frenzy, barking at me, at the boxers, and out of frustration that he can't get closer. The scenario ends with me herding him into the house, because I will not let my dogs stay outside and bark like fools. It gets really old, and I was about to restrict Gizmo to walking in the front yard on a flexi leash and not let him in the back yard. That made me mad, because if my neighbor would make his dogs behave, and not leave them out there to bark all day, I wouldn't have this problem. My dogs can be out, and if his dogs are not barking and lunging at my fence, Gizmo can behave and not have a hissy fit. But “Boxers without Manners” is the real world for so many of us with doggie neighbors.

SO, I've tried over the last couple of years spraying water on Gizmo, the citronella collar (our yard was mosquito free from all the cloud of citronella, but it didn’t deter Gizmo), bitter apple on the fence (I guess it gave it a nice spicy flavor), tossing a penny can, hollering, chasing, grabbing him, scolding him and telling him how obnoxious he is. All the wrong things, and all the things that come naturally when being a REactive owner during a bad situation. Well, none of those have worked, surprise, surprise. Once he gets into that frenzy, there is absolutely NO stopping him, and he can not even hear a word I’m saying.

Last week, I just got sick and tired of the whole thing. Gizmo was grabbing the fence and I took his collar and turned him away from the fence, and his teeth brushed the palm of my free hand as I brought it around to pick up the dog. That was the final straw. My dog did not mean to bite me, and he certainly did not break the skin or commit an act of aggression toward me. But he was so caught up in his frenzy that he was going to pull that board off the fence, and nothing was going to stop him. I thought and thought, and wondered what I could possibly do to save my sanity and keep Gizmo out of the proverbial “doghouse.” I work on behavior modification in all sorts of dogs and some of those dogs required serious behavior modification, and I'm pretty successful at it for dog's sake! How do I do that? Oh, yes, with positive reinforcement to teach a new behavior. DING! The light bulb moment! Duh, I'm the classic case of a reactive owner, reacting to my reactive dog. I teach people how to stop being reactive and be pro-active in all kinds of situations. And yet, I missed the obvious in my own dog, and myself, and I didn’t recognize the problem I was harboring literally in my own backyard. I wasn’t thinking of the situation as being a “behavior” to teach, I was thinking about it as a frustrating situation, and just didn’t do too much about it. How’s that for missing the obvious?

Now that I have self-diagnosed my failure, where to begin? I'll digress and say that I do not give out many treats at my house day to day, we usually reserve those for training, and my dogs are not used to getting treats for basic, household behavior these days. Right or wrong, I just don't mess with treats much on a day to day basis, unless it's a small cookie when I leave the house. As youngsters, or being new to the house, treats are dispensed when learning the acceptable behaviors in our family. But with four adult dogs, the most recent being Gizzer arriving three years ago, daily treats for routine manners have gone by the wayside.

I needed to figure out a way to be PRO-active with Gizmo. Hmm, that isn't too difficult, the dog would do backflips for a breadcrumb, so it was easy to figure out how to motivate and reward good behavior. In my days of being REactive, by the time I offered the cookie, it was too late, Gizzer was in a frenzy, and he couldn't even stop for food. This training proved useful for all of my dogs, not just Gizmo, so it was a good thing. So, I spent just 15 minutes in the backyard, regular kibble in my pocket, with all four dogs. None of them knew what I was up to, and it was a great training time. The boxers were nowhere to be seen (or heard, in this case), and Gizmo was able to focus on me rather than the boxers and the fence. I stood in the middle of the yard, and called Gizmo to me in a very happy voice. He came to me willingly, and WOW! His face just lit up when I offered a small handful of kibble for his good behavior. Within minutes, all four of my dogs were racing to me the minute I called. They thought this was just great.

Once I gave the treats, I ignored the dogs, or they would hound me for more treats, and eventually they would come to me, get their treat, and gradually wander back to their previous activities of grazing, searching for non-existent rabbits, etc. Then I stepped up the training. Calling the dogs to me in the middle of the back yard is one thing, but having them all race to me at the back door is entirely different. Calling from the back door means that they might have to come inside the house, and inside means no wrestling, barking, and acting like crazy dogs. Outside is far more fun on a sunny day!

I moved to the back deck, called dogs individually and as a group to come to me for another 5-10 minutes. That went very well. So I stepped inside the back door, and added the next level of difficulty. I called Gizmo to me inside the back door, and he raced to the deck, and hesitated just for a moment before he came inside, his motivation for food took over, and he came in the house to get his treat. I praised and praised, gave the treat, and then left the door open so Gizmo could go back outside. I wanted them to know that coming inside the back door does not always mean that outside fun time is over. Within two days, the difference was remarkable. I have four dogs behaving much better and really showing the good manners I know they have. I also have a REactive Cardigan who turns and comes running when he hears the back door open.

Now, having gushed with pride at the good manners my dogs are showing, I will admit that all this training was sans-boxers. The first time we were out and the boxers came rushing the fence, Gizmo started on his trek to the fence hole. That’s so automatic for him. BUT, standing in the middle of the yard, I was VERY conscious about not raising my voice in reaction, but the second I heard those dogs, I called Gizmo to me in a friendly tone, and the instant he turned his head to me, I clicked. Of course, he ran right over for the treat, but he was still obviously agitated about the boxers. As he gulped his treat, he turned to dash off, and again, I said his name in a friendly tone. Success again, he came right back to me. It was a real thrill to see how smart my dog was, and also a real blow to my ego to realize how long I’ve been dumb about this. I only put Gizzer in this stressful situation for a minute, and called him off of his frenzied run for the fence three times. Then I gave him the remainder of the kibble from my pocket and we walked into the house together, where even more kibble was waiting for the good dog. Since we started this training and positive reinforcement, I can’t believe the difference in the dogs, and in myself. Letting the dogs out into the yard was so stressful for me, always wondering when the boxers would come flying out of the house and run to the fence, and wondering how long it would take me to get Gizmo in the house. Now, the instant I open the back door, I rarely have to call anyone, and I’m practically knocked over by four dogs racing to be first in line for cookies.

Thank goodness my dogs are all chow-hounds, and plain dog kibble is a high-value treat. And thank goodness they can’t count, so they don’t see that I’m withholding some of that kibble from their meals.

I wanted to put my experience in writing for a couple of reasons. First, I wanted to be able to go back and read again and again to remind myself that it’s natural for me to think REactive in a day to day setting. I think I’m very proactive in a formal “training” session where I am focusing on one dog and teaching behaviors.

Second, I thought that maybe others would see themselves, not that a sassy senior Cardigan Corgi chewing holes in a fence will relate to many. But, the thought process of slowing down, moving from reactive to proactive, and taking a step back could prove to be helpful. I let this situation go for two years, and if my stubborn corgi (and all the other dogs for that matter) can learn to change his behavior because of a simple change in MY behavior and training, I think there is hope for just about anything!




furrykidsrefuge.org : Commiting ourselves to full time dog rescue.


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I found Thor, or he found me in a rural Mississippi area. I was volunteering at an university equestrian cleaning barns and feeding horses. Thor showed up with two other dogs, all strays, a chow mix, a pit bull mix, and Thor (still not quite sure but terrier/schnauzer mix it seems). Thor was the sickest and most fearful of the pack.

The other two dogs were more social and easily adopted. Thor was sick and afraid of humans.
We growled when people came close and we left food and water in the barn for him daily.

A veterinarian friend of mine asked me if I might adopt him if she took him home and brought him back to health. The chances were slim as he'd been beaten (or hit by a vehicle or both) was a big mat of fur, and not much energy. I hesitantly said I would, thinking the dog probably wouldn't make it anyway, but, if she would go to the trouble to take him to her home and care for him, shave his totally matted hair and try to socialize him, I would take over. He lived. That was 1997 and she estimated him to be about 10 years old based on his teeth. (I think that is how they estimate a dog's age).

Oddly enough, and it was a slow process, Thor not only came back to life, but became “man's best friend”. I was then working at home so he was with me all day, and the neighbor's kids all loved him as he looked just like Benji when his hair grew back. He was a true “movie star dog” with a
phenomenal lovable personality; dramatically different than when we appeared into my life.

A few years later Thor became despondent and stared at the wall for hours not responding to
my calls. I took him to the vet who named a lot of diseases it probably was, old age, juvenile
seizures among other things. He said we should put him on barbiturates (for the rest of his life)
which probably would not be long, to prevent the seizures. I told him I would have to think
about it.

I spent the next few months studying canine diseases, talking to different vets, studying
animal diets, and gathering all the information I could.

I finally ran into Dr. Ian Billinghurst of Australia who led me to his website and I read
his book “Give Your Dog A Bone”.

Of course I was very skeptical. He was suggesting that a dog's digestive system had not
evolved so far from a wolves and needed only raw foods, veggies, fruits, and raw bones and
meat.

I was to ease into this diet. All at once could cause a shock to the system. Thor didn't have
much life left in him so I was at my wit's end.

I decided to start with raw hamburger and blended in some raw broccoli, squash etc. all
in a blender.

For a month, I would just give him a little, and eventually weaned him off his regular processed
dog food.

I can remember the horrendous fear I had giving him his first raw chicken wing. Like everyone
else, I grew up with the same caveat “never feed a dog chicken bones” which fell into the
same category “don't put a stick in your eye!” Serious warnings. Thor ate the chicken wing with glee and it remains one of his favorites, yet ten years later.
By the way, not one vet visit since that time.

I know that the pet food industry has a powerful lobby and will dispute my own findings
saying “where's the beef? What documentation do you have?” etc. etc. And that's good that
they have that defense, or offense.

I have read what is in pet food, even the finest, and I'm not impressed. Though veterinarians
get very little nutritional training in vet school (most comes from pet-food salespeople) even the
veterinarian textbooks admit there is no minimal nutritional requirements for grains for any dogs,
yet look at even the top quality dog foods. They contain a lot of grains.

They also contained cooked food which contain NO live enzymes. Dogs need live enzymes for
a high quality of life.

Can dogs or cats live a long life on processed dog food? Well of course. Many have lived to
ripe old ages.

I've owned dogs (and cats) all my life and the truth be told most of them lived past the age of
ten, but did they live a high quality of life? Heavens no. Vet visits for various ailments were
commonplace.

Thor has walked 3-4 miles a day with me all the way up to 18 years of age. Do you know of
many dogs that can do that who are on a processed food diet? Perhaps they exist. I have never
seen one.

Recently Thor has slowed down. Twenty is very old for any domestic pet. But he still
plays ball with me, fetches it, barks when he hears noises outside, has perfect hearing, etc.

I am educated. I generally require a lot of research before I draw a conclusion. Not a lot of
research has been done on the b.a.r.f diet though the testimonials throughout the net are
definitely there, and they are many, and many of the stories are similar to mine.

If you are at the end of your rope, and like my early vet said “There's really not much hope,
let's just keep him comfortable, might I suggest to investigate this diet. I am no vet and I
make no claims that it will cure anything.

I can only purvey what it has done for Thor and it is nothing short of a miracle. I highly
recommend to pursue more information on shirleys-wellness-cafe.com or drianbillinghurst.com
and many many other sites that are loaded with information on the raw food diet for pets.




Rick London is an E-entrepreneur owing numerous websites such as [http://www.sosflowers.us], the Internet's only 24/7 365 same-day delivery florist and Londons Times Cartoons Superstore with over 65,000 of his licensed cartoon products http://www.londonstimessuperstore.com. He is also an avid animal-lover constantly taking in strays, and is often called "The Dog-Man Of Hot Springs (Ar).


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As the summer begins to heat up you probably enjoy playing with them in the sun and taking them for more walks. However, for all the fun you are going to have, you must be thinking about your dogs health.

By not keeping a dog cool in the summer you are opening the door for heat-related illnesses and injuries to plague him/her.

You may be surprised but dogs are actually able to get a sun burn. If you have a white or lightly colored dog, they are just as likely to suffer from a sunburn as we do when exposed to the sun. If a dog undergoes long-term sun exposure they can suffer from skin damage and possibly skin cancer.

To prevent this from happening you are going to need to limit the amount of time your dog spends in direct sunlight. you need to consult your veterinarian immediately If you notice any type of discoloration or sore. Common areas that are effected are the nose, ears, and eyelids.

If they are exposed to the sun for to long your dog can also suffer from heat injury. Heat injury is when your dog's body temperature exceeds it's ability to cool itself. Your dog's normal body temperature is between 100 and 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit. If your dogs temperature rises above 106 F, it's normal cooling mechanisms get overwhelmed which causes a heat stroke which will require medical treatment.

Large double-coated breeds are more susceptible to a heat stroke. Huskies and other dog breeds suited for cold climates also have a low tolerance for heat and humidity.

The best way to prevent a heat stroke is to give dogs a summer hair cut. If you go to a good groomer they will be able to cut your dog's coat down a few inches which will allow them to dissipate the heat better. It is important that you do not get the dogs hair cut all the way down to the skin because this eliminates their protection from sunburn and other injuries.

During the midday heat you should keep your dog indoors in either a well-ventilated area or an air conditioned area. If you are going to take your dog on a walk or play with them you should do it later in the night or earlier in the day when it is less hot outside.

Because it protects them from a heat stroke and from getting sunburned keeping a dog cool is very important. This article should have enlightened you on the two conditions and ways to help keep your dog cool during the summer.




Jeff Schuman invites you to visit his article writer website for 100% copyright articles and multiple article discounts on website and blog articles. Competitive pricing, testimonials, samples! http://article-writer.team-schuman.com


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My dog was completely out of control and not unlike others I saw being taken for a walk by their pooch. Does this ring any kind of bell for you? Is your dog allowing you to walk with him/her? Do you dread the walk an look forward to it being over and done with? If the answer is even close to yes, then a Halti collar might be your answer.

Halti dog training collars have been invented for those dog owners who are not as strong as their dog physically or mentally, and those petite owners who are lucky enough to weigh less than their canine companion.

Haltis are designed so that the dog can have their pointing straight ahead and they also come in a number of varying sizes (thank goodness). When you gently pull on the leash, the halti collar brings the dog's head around in the direction you are steering, ensuring that the rest of Fido's body follows in the same direction.

Halti head collars can be used successfully on dogs of any age. Older dogs are used to being spoiled or getting their way but a younger dog or puppy will adapt really quickly. Eventually, Spot will be just as well behaved as most of the other puppies and dogs in your area if not better behaved.

If you're thinking of leash training or maybe you're a little elderly, then you'll understand that the last thing you want to do is cause any pain for your dog or yourself for that matter.

Halti head collars are not designed to leave on your dog on a permanent basis. After the walk is it important the collar be removed. Otherwise there is a small but real risk of your dog tangling up his collar with household objects resulting in serious injuries (even strangulations).

Halti collars are not supposed to be used with a yanking motion. A gentle pull in the desired direction is all that is needed to have Fido sticking to the chosen path. Halti head collars are also not designed for allowing Fido to run extremely fast to the end of the leash. This style of activity will have Fido bouncing back like a furry yo-yo, and could result in spinal whiplash injuries.

All in all, halti head collars are ideal for the out of control dog, or the owner who is overwhelmed physically or mentally. If your dog is a large breed, you will be pleased to hear that the control of your dog is much greater with a Halti. With a Halti, wrenched shoulders and suffocating canines will be all over.




Kay has supplied more detail on Halti Collars. She also recommends you read this article on your first night with puppy.


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Many dog owners would like to know how often they should feed their dogs and you are not an exception. A puppy in its first six weeks must be fed milk five to seven times a day. The puppy will alert you, its owner, through sound.

As the puppy grows older and moves beyond six weeks, the frequency drops. Once the dog reaches four weeks old, it can start taking some solid food. Your puppies introduction to solid food is cautionary though as you will have to only feed him twice a day on solid. The reason for this is to watch out if the dog develops diarrhea and if it does, discontinue the new feeding regimen.

This is due to trial and error. However, your dog's eating of solid food should increase to two to three times daily once the dog reaches eight weeks. However, if the dog is still hungry, then provide it with some extra food. This however varies with different breeds.

You must avoid feeding your dog too many times in this age group. Between the third and sixth month, the puppy will be teething. Consequently, restrict the feeding to twice only but it must be balanced lest the dog develop deficiency based symptoms.

From six months to one year, strive using puppy food that is commercially available. However, once the dog reaches a year, adult food may be given more and more. From this time on, its food may comprise of only adult food.

However, when the dog becomes an elder dog, restrict the frequency of feeding since the movements of such adult dogs are much reduced. However, the pregnant animal may be fed an extra time depending on the willingness of the animal. As always, never compromise on the quality of food you give your dog.




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People love to tame dogs. So far as the Australian Shepherds are concerned it can be said that the Australian Shepherd is a sort of American breed that was used in the cattle ranches. Their height is around 18 to 23 inches and their weight is set at between 35 and 70 pounds. They are designed with medium length double coat. This coat can be straight or marcel. However this breed can be multi-colored such as perfect combination of red, blue merle, jet black, or red merle. Their coats are also designed with markings. So far as the healthcare is concerned one should take proper care and attention to protect them from such diseases like hip dysplasia, low vision, deafness or impairment and so on. They should be given vaccination to build up the resistance power in the body.

Before purchasing the Australian Shepherds one should put emphasis on the fact whether he will keep dogs at home for the protection of the house or he will press the dog into service of controlling cattle and herding animals. For domestic purposes one can purchase nonchalant and polite Australian Shepherds but for herding animals, dogs should be aggressive and industrious. So far as the source of the originality of the Australian Shepherds are concerned there is some confusion and misconception about their originality. Though they are thought to be Australian Shepherds, in actuality they belong to the breeding line which was earlier used by Basque shepherds of southern Spain. In the year of 1875, Basque shepherds had to make venture to American shores. At that time they carried these species with them. In this way those dogs were later spread over the whole world and later these dogs were recognized by American Kennel Club as the Australian Shepherds. It looks very bold and resolute. It is double coated with the round feet and straight limbs. They are available in blue, blue merle, red merle and all red color.

These dogs are extremely faithful to masters. They can monitor the house with perfection. Under the coverage of the impenetrate darkness, this type of dog is very effective and competent in watching the property and adjoining house at night. Therefore they are very good and competent nocturnal watchdogs. They can even make the owners of the house aware of the imminent danger. This dog has very effective chasing capability. Therefore in the matter of having control over herding animals and cattle in the cattle ranches, these dogs can be trained and pressed into service.




Article source: http://australian-shepherd-training.com/australian-shepherd-dog.html
Find out how to train your Australian shepherd dog by clicking the link below: => Australian Shepherd Dog Training <=


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When it comes to our dogs, most of us will stop at nothing to ensure that they are well-taken cared of; comfortable and even pampered beyond compare. After all, man's best friend only deserves the best, right? This is why, any sign of discomfort; illness or general unhappiness; will have us scrambling to the vet for answers. One particular situation that may have us scared stiff relates to the question "Why is my dog coughing up white foam?"

Most dogs have undergone such an episode that directly asks the question Why Is My Dog Coughing Up White Foam? Now, before we get into a state of panic, there are several reasons why our dogs may be vomiting what looks like white or even yellowish foam.

WHY DO DOGS COUGH UP WHITE FOAM?

There are quite a few explanations pertaining to our inquiry of Why Is My Dog Coughing Up White Foam? One of these is that they may have ingested something that's not right for them - or is not compatible with their stomachs. An upset stomach can sometimes result in dogs vomiting some sort of whitish substance, usually foamy and thick.

Another reason behind Why Is My Dog Coughing Up White Foam is what is generally called a bilious vomiting syndrome. When there is too much bile in the dog's tummy, they release it through vomiting. Too much bile can also result in the dog feeling nauseated hence, the vomiting.

This syndrome usually occurs after a good night's sleep. Usually, if our dogs simply vomit this bile and has no other indications of other illnesses, then it is highly likely that the dog has the bilious vomiting syndrome.

WHAT WE CAN DO

On the other hand, if we are asking Why Is My Dog Coughing Up White Foam and has been feeling restless for several days; is not eating and experiencing other symptom, then it is time to take the dog to our trusted vet. A visit to the vet can alleviate our fears and also give the proper medication to our dogs if they have more than just a bilious vomiting syndrome.

Since the reason behind Why Is My Dog Coughing Up White Foam is this syndrome, what we can do is give the dog a small snack in the middle of the night just so they won't wake up hungry which may cause the syndrome to occur. We can find out more about this condition via the internet and more importantly through our trusted vet. Both measures can give us helpful tips and the necessary emergency care in case our dogs start to vomit white foam again.




Please click these links if you want to know more about my dog coughing white foam or why do cats purr in general.


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Every dog requires grooming on a regular basis whether they have a long coat, such as Samoyed, German Long-haired Pointer and Lhasa Apso, or if they have short coats such as Basset Hounds, Boxers or Labrador Retrievers and even those in between.

Each Breed of Dog Has Specific Needs

All dogs need basic grooming care such as brushing and bathing or ear and teeth cleaning and their nails trimmed, however different types of coats will involve different steps of grooming. For instance, a breed with long hair is more complicated and time consuming. It is essential to begin grooming a puppy early as they become acquainted to the routine of grooming. When a puppy learns to enjoy the process of grooming at such an early age, it creates a peaceful and pleasant atmosphere for you and you dog.

Everyday Puppy Grooming

To create a positive experience for your puppy, you should familiarize the puppy with the process slowly, yet often. Introduce the puppy to each piece of grooming paraphernalia by showing it to the puppy and letting it sniff the object for a few moments, one at a time. Then offer the puppy a small treat.

For instance, while introducing a brush, you gently touch the puppy with the brush while offering the treat. When the puppy accepts the brush, you them gently brush one stroke and then offer a treat. After about the third brush stroke the puppy will relax while understanding that brushing feels good. If you break the procedure down into small steps, the puppy has the opportunity to accept the positive experience you have created within each step of the process.

Introduce the puppy to the grooming station where it can become acquainted with the area before you begin grooming. For instance, a couple of days before having a bath you will place the puppy in the bathtub while it is dry, then let the puppy play with a toy and offer it a treat. The next day, repeat this process, although you should add at this time some water and a sponge. Allow the puppy to get used to a small amount of water slowly before filling a tub for bathing.

You will follow the same technique when introducing any other grooming tools such as a toothbrush or nail clippers. Taking the time to introduce grooming to your puppy will ensure a pleasurable experience for you and your dog for the rest of their life.




Joann Henry operates "Doggie Health Care" http://www.DoggieHealthCare.com a blog all about our beloved four legged family member's health. She loves to give away free stuff! If you sign up to receive her newsletter, not only will you get some free tips to keep your dog healthier, but FOR A LIMITED TIME, she'll give you a FREE ebook. For more information, please visit: http://www.DoggieHealthCare.com

There has been a lot of speculation recently on dogs and their experience and expression of emotion.  Are they "feeling" in the sense that we do?  Are they only responding from instinct and what's happening in the moment?  What about dogs and emotion?         

These questions are an ongoing consideration by us dog behaviorists and lovers.  We speak definitively as if to know so much more than we really do.   Thanks to scientific study and our ability to analyze thought and the brain as we think the thought, we are better able to understand what is happening in the minds of humans.  We are also making great progress in learning more about the level of awareness of animals, specifically our canine companions.  

Working with rescue dogs, I can tell you that dogs definitely experience different emotions.  Who knows the exact process or if their emotion can or should be rated or in any way equated to a human emotion.  Since I don't have any other language, I'll use human emotion as my way of labeling a dog's expression.  Here are a few of my observations:


  • Dogs smile when they see us smile at them.

  • It may not be an emotion, but it is definitely an expression - I have seen more than one dog turn a shade of green after eating something that wasn't meant for consumption.  (Not unlike us, that may not stop them from doing it again!)

  • A tail wag and a crab crawl toward the human hand that is reaching to give affection, is definitely a giggle.

  • A tail tuck and cartoon-like run as they spin around the yard or room is a moment of pure bliss.

  • Our dogs running to grab a treasured toy when we arrive home is not unlike a child who runs to greet a parent after work showing them their latest creation.  (Everything seems more valuable when you can share it!)


 
Does it really matter if we know exactly what caused the moment of shared or spontaneous glee?  We don't stop when a human smiles at us to ask  them what they are specifically feeling at this moment.  We just enjoy the smile.  While I find the study of emotion (canine and human) fascinating, the most important thing is to be in the moment and to share it!




Gayle Cousineau
http://divadogtraining.com
http://divadogtraining.com/blog
Dog Trainer and Behavior Modification for Dogs and Their Humans


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This is the story of my dog called Shandy. He was my favourite pet and he was very lively, lots of fun and very obedient. His main passion in life was to be taken for a long walk, culminating with a big run out in his favourite park.

I would try to take him on this walk everyday, weather permitting. The park itself was about three miles away from our house. To reach the park we had to cross a number of busy roads, however he would never pull or misbehave. He knew where we were heading and seemingly did not want to rock the boat and risk been taken home before he reached his dream destination.

At the park itself I would throw a ball and he would chase it and fetch it back to me.

At this stage I was living at home with my parents, however aged twenty two, I decided to rent my own bungalow near the coast in Devon. This was nearly two hundred miles away from my parents in home in Birmingham. This obviously meant I was no longer in the position to take Shandy on his walk.

I spoke to my parents, who reassured me that they would continue to take him on the walks.

Two weeks after I had left, I had a phone call from my mother. She was panicking, stating that Shandy had managed to escape from the back garden and that she could not find him. She insisted that she had been looking for hours but that there had been no sign of him.

I was quite worried and thought about where he may have gone to.
"Have you been taking him on his walks to the park everyday?"
I asked.

She replied:
"Most days"
I asked her to try at the park, telling her that he loves that park etc.
"He would not be there, its miles away."
She said.

I again asked her to try there.
Luckily he was there quite happily sniffing around, unaware of the panic he had caused.

Stephen Hill




Stephen Hill has a couple of websites at [http://www.lasik-laser-surgery.co.uk] and at http://www.debt-specialist.co.uk


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Question: My 9 year old female pit bull has become a very vocal whiner. She whines all day long. Sometimes I know what she wants but most of the time I don’t. She lives in a house with a lot of people and they are always spoiling her. I know that’s part of the problem. Do you have a suggestion on how I can minimize the whining? - from Kat

Answer: Great question - and you will be relieved to know that you are not the only dog owner that has experienced this behaviour. Anyone that has owned a puppy knows that whining is a constant problem. However, most puppies outgrow this behaviour with time. Your situation is a bit different because your dog is 9 years old and has apparently just started exhibiting this behaviour recently. Lets look at a couple different types of whining:

Whining for attention - some dog owners inadvertently condition their dog to whine more by rewarding the whine with some form of attention. This attention could be a simple as eye contact, or more direct like petting. To break this cycle, it works best to simply ignore the whining completely - do not give any notice or attention to the dog until it stops. Sometimes using a signal that you will withdrawal your attention works well. For instance, blow a kazoo to signal that you are ignoring the dog until the whining stops. This can often times work faster than simply ignoring it completely.

Whining when Anxious - If you dog is whining when nobody is around, it may be a component of separation anxiety syndrome. Dogs with this syndrome will whine simply when they cannot see their owner. If this is what your dog is doing you might want to visit with your vet about available medications for this condition.

Treatment

  • Ignore whining for petty things your dog wants. By giving a bone to your dog when he whines, simply reinforces the behaviour.
  • One idea is to get a simple clicker (available at pet stores) - ignore the whining until it stops then click and reward. Be sure to not click until at least 3 seconds of silence has occurred.
  • Make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise - a tired dog is a happy dog!
The biggest thing to remember is that all dogs whine, it is simply a way for them to communicate with us humans. However, this can also become very annoying, and needs to be dealt with swiftly and consistently. Your biggest challenge, Kat, will be that there appears to be many “owners” in your household. Every person in your home will need to correct the dog exactly the same way. I would suggest sitting everyone down and going over the “ground rules” - even show by example how you are ALL going to get this problem corrected.




Do you have a question about your dog? Visit our Dog Question Form [http://www.pet-guides.com] to submit it.

To see all the dog questions that have been submitted visit Dog Answers [http://www.pet-guides.com/blog] - feel free to share your knowledge, and leave an answer or tip to any of the questions.


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Lately you may be concerned with the increase in crime rate and the number of burglaries in your neighborhood. You've already given your entire family Personal Alarms as well as Pepper Spray for the older kids and spouse to keep the bad guys away.

But what about your house?

How about getting a large dog, maybe the size of a German Shepherd. No one wants to be attacked and bitten by a dog of any size, let alone one who can tear your arm off.

"But I don't have a dog and I don't want one" you say. "Besides, it's too much trouble keeping one, especially since I frequently travel and am not at home. And, even more important, I have a family and don't want them exposed to a vicious dog that could bite any one of my kids."

Well then, how about a dog that doesn't shed, doesn't need feeding, doesn't need to be taken for a walk and can't bite anyone in your family but still barks loudly enough to keep most burglars away. And you can't be sued about anyone being bitten.

Who in his right mind would approach a house with a large, barking dog just waiting for them to break in?

Most burglars will avoid any house with a barking dog because the last thing they want is any attention while they're doing their dirty deeds.

So, if you have a dog that barks at noises or strangers in your home you have a good chance that the burglar will go somewhere else and leave you alone.

Guess what -- this 'dog' is actually an electronic motion detector!

This amazing Dog Motion Detector will be on guard 24/7, will detect motion over 15 feet and has a volume control which makes it easier if you are at home. The Dog Motion Detector comes already assembled, needs no installation and is easy to use -- no learning curve is necessary. The Dog Bark Motion Detector plugs into any standard electrical outlet.

The 'dog' sounds just like the German Shepherd that you were afraid to have in your house. And, the barking sound from your Dog Motion Detector increases as the prowler gets nearer to the door.

Also, while you're at home the Dog Motion Detector gives you a choice of sounds when any visitors are coming. You can set it on the bark mode or a relaxing melody of tranquil sounds of nature (waterfall sounds as well as frogs and bird sounds).

Since your Dog Motion Detector is portable, you can use it in motel roooms, vacation homes, even garages or sheds where you keep any valuable tools or cars. Just think outside the box and you will find many other uses for this amazing Dog Motion Detector so you won't become a crime statistic.

Don't Be the Next Victim!




For more information on the Dog Bark Motion Detector, please visit our website: http://www.feelsafeandsecure.com/pro1365260.html

Larry Zolna is an author for Feel Safe and Secure, a website offering Home Security and Self Defense Products as well as Wireless Hidden Cameras. Please visit http://www.feelsafeandsecure.com for more information on these products and Don't Be the Next Victim!


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There's a hole in your life that only a dog can fill. You want a special dog, perhaps just a full-grown adult. Maybe your code of ethics calls for saving a dog's life - not buying an expensive purebred.

I'm not a veterinarian or a dog trainer, but I've enjoyed two successful adoptions. Here are some tips I've picked up along the way.

(1) Clarify your requirements ahead of time.

Once you're standing in front of a cage, it's easy to say, "Well, he's a lot bigger than I expected, and I really wanted a female, but oh he's SO cute!" No amount of love or training will help if your dog needs more exercise than you can provide.

(2) Know the difference between shelter and rescue groups.

Most cities have humane societies where you can view dogs and make a choice. Rescue groups typically hold animals in foster care - which is good, because you can ask the foster mom all sorts of questions. For example, they can say, "This dog lived with two cats so you know you can trust her."

(3) Be prepared to pay.

Shelter animals are not free, but you do get value for money. Expect to pay a fee that may include spay/neuter costs, licensing, and/or veterinarian visits.

(4) Consider an older dog.

By the time a dog has turned three or four, she's as big as she's going to get. No surprises! You'll also have clues regarding his temperament.

(5) Plan to confine the dog during a period of transition.

Your new dog doesn't get it. She was in a loving home (or left alone in a yard all day or even abused). Then she spent a few weeks in a cage, feeling lonely and isolated. Maybe she's been passed around to multiple homes.

Bottom line, she's stressed. She may chew, dig, bark, or even lose her house training at first.

Crating the dog prevents destructive behavior. My dogs both looked visibly relieved as they retreated to their crates every day. "Time to relax," they seemed to say.

(6) Invest in training.

Most dogs are turned over to the shelter because of behavior problems. If you're new to the world of dog behavior, take a class or hire a professional. Most behavior can be corrected, even among older dogs. But if you're not sure, ask a professional. Some behaviors can't be "fixed."

(7) Incorporate large doses of exercise and walks into your day.

Walking together builds your bond and a tired dog is a good dog. Begin the exercise program immediately so you can gain a sense of how much exercise the dog needs - an important factor in the dog's adjustment - and start training for the basics on the way home from the shelter.




Dog Fanatic Cathy Goodwin wrote Arf! Dog Health Comes Home: Tips and resources to care for your sick, injured and senior dogs. Download your copy at http://www.dog-health.org Visit Mid-Life Dog, a blog written by Cathy's dog Gracie.


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Help my dog barks too much is what can be running through your head if your dog sits there all day and keeps barking and it seems to you as if it is for no apparent reason. However they do have a reason they are just like children they would not cry unless they are trying to communicate with you. This article is going to give you some reasons of why your dog barks; so you do not have to say help my dog barks too much anymore. Listed below are five reasons why dogs bark take a look and see if your Fido is barking because of some of those reasons:



  • Boredom: Sure you probably just got home from work, dinner, or anywhere else you went out and had a good time while your pet sat at home waiting on you. Meanwhile they are so bored they do not know how to get your attention so they bark uncontrollably. However if it is something easy like this; this can be remedied very easily. Take them for a long walk or just spend some time with them.


  • Trying To Get Something: I do not know about you but when my dog loses a ball or it rolls underneath the bed or somewhere she can not go; she will sit there and stare at it and bark until someone comes to her rescue to get the ball. It is her way of saying I can not get my ball can someone come get it for me.


  • Out Of Water: It could be something as simple as having run out of water. We stay busy sometimes too busy that we do not notice the water bowl that is empty; so your best friend is just giving you a friendly reminder.


  • Visitors: Most dogs will bark to let you know whether someone is outside your home or not. It is in their nature to protect their surroundings.
These are pretty simple and obvious reasons of why your dog would bark; however what do you do if you feel like help my dog barks too much and it is not for any apparent reason, I can not seem to figure it out? Every dog has a reason on why they bark and it is your job to figure it out. Yes it can be frustrating when they are barking and it seems like they do not have a reason; just as it can be frustrating when a child cries and it seems as it is for no apparent reason. Everyone has a reason for trying to communicate.

If you are tired of your dog barking too much and you want to learn how to better train your dog; then feel free to visit the website below for valuable information on how to train your dog using humane methods; that will make both of you happier. You will never again have to say help my dog barks too much, because you will better be able to understand what it is they want.




Did you find these tips on How To Stop A Puppy From Biting helpful? Get your FREE 6-part mini-course that will teach you little-known Dog Obedience Training Secrets to correcting dog behavior problems using REAL-LIFE scenarios. Plus Find Out Right Now How To Stop Dog Obedience Problems


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RAR, DAT and BIN file extensions are very popular in computer world. At the same time only small amount of users knows that are they used for.

File extension RAR stands for Roshal Archiver. In the same way PK in PKZip stands for Phil Katz. Storing information in a way we see it (words, paragraphs, pages) is very space inefficient. That is why computer scientists invented lots of multiple ways to compress the information. It is actually quite simple to understand who basic principle of compression works. For example if you have document which consists mostly of words "dog" and "cat" you can replace "dog" with "*" and "cat" with "+". Thus "dog chases cat" would look like "* chases +". As you see just by such simple operation we reduced length of the sentence by 4 characters. RAR actually uses much more advanced compression algorithm and often capable of reducing amount of stored information by 5-10 times. That is why it is so popular on the internet (it is much faster to download 1MB of information rather than 10MB).

File extension DAT stands for DATA. This file extension is used by huge number of applications to store different helpful textual and binary information. Files with DAT extension usually tends to be quite huge.

File extension BIN stands for BINARY. Binary is a way of representing information in a way which computer could more easily understand. You probably heard that computer doesn't count in a way we do from 1 to 10 but does it in a different way using binary systems where there only 2 digits - 0 and 1. So number 2 will be codes as 10, 7 as 111. So BIN files are usually used to store information coded in binary form which application could use during its work.

Also I'd like to cover one bonus file extension since it became very popular in the age of internet. It is file extension XPI. This extension is used by Mozilla Firefox for installing Firefox extensions over the internet. This extension is pronounced "zippy" and the package contains instruction for Firefox on how to install the extension.

If you have problems with any of the format above try finding an application which corresponds to your format.

One more possibility is that you have a windows registry error. To check for registry errors you could download registry cleaner.




Thank you for reading this article and I hope it is helpful to you. Please refer to my File Extension Guru site where you can find more details about file extension DAT and file extension RAR.

 

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